What do we mean by “classic vintage fashion”? It refers to clothing styles and trends that were popular in previous decades, but characterized by it’s nostalgic appeal, which is often reflected in the design aesthetics and cultural influences of the past. Classic means, simple but harmonious and elegant, with lasting significance, but enduring.
VICTORIAN ERA
The Victorian era is classed as the antique era being well over 100 years ago now, but as important as the vintage era, as it played a part of history which transitioned into the following era, being partly antique, partly vintage.
This fashion era for ladies depicted large looking tiered skirts that were bell shaped with low pointed waistlines supported in width by crinoline petticoats, whilst the top of the dress was very fitted with a round neck and flounced sleeves, for day time. The crinoline petticoat was originally made from horsehair and whalebone but later replaced by a light of metal spring hoops, which both created volume under the hoop skirt. In the evenings the neckline was rather scouped or often below the shoulders with 3/4 sleeves, for a romantic look. Both day and evening wear was accompanied by either a paisley patterned shawl or crochet shawl, or large collared capes. Head wear was a must with either large decorated bonnets or lace frilled linen caps, for outdoor activity. Jackets that were tiered caped were also worn during this time. Women’s underwear or lingerie was of long pantaloons or bloomers around knee length, with adorning frills. Corsets were obligatory to hold in the waist, and to emphasis a very small waistline. To learn more about how to dress in 1896, it looked something like this.
As the decades evolved, necklines became higher and dresses had buttons in the front with white coloured lace cuffs and collars. Bodices depicted sloping shoulders that would flare out into wide sleeves. During the 1860’s there was less emphasis on the billowing full skirt with the crinoline petticoat which slowly became less popular, restricting women’s movements, and causing severe heat from many layers of clothing worn. Originally this style was mainly favoured by upper class women who were the first to wear them, but later women of all classes started wearing them. Recreate your special outfit underskirt by purchasing one of these today. There were reports that thousands of women around the world died as a result of misusem – especially near open flames. So for this reason, and many others including non practicality, this fashion piece went out of style. During the 1870’s the necklines became open and square looking with very tight lower waistlines.
As fashion styles changed and the skirt moved to a new emphasis from the back, more towards the front, draped up with embellished bustles of ruching and flounces which were exaggerated throughout the 1880’s. Necklines were very high with fitted bodices and tight sleeves were trimmed with lace during this time. Hats continued to play a very important part of fashion with small adorned hats tilted to the front, but later larger wide brimmed hats also became popular. During the late 1890’s the skirts were plain but A-line, whilst the bodice was horizontally decorated to exaggerate the wide shoulders, but sleeves still Gigot or Leg-O-Mutton style with very puffy shoulders. A tailored masculine – like look also emerged, as women became more active outdoors including walking or playing golf, and would suitably dress in a shirt collar tie and jacket accompanied by gloves and a hat. As a starting point – to your 1890’s attire, look no further than these ideas on Etsy, to help formulate your two piece suit, ultimately crafting it to your desired look.
EDWARDIAN ERA
During this era some major fashion changes happened due to the onset of World War 1, which had a profound affect to the style and direction that fashion was taking at that time, and many different changes occurred due of this.
Victorian fashion from the late 1800’s continued to influence the early 1900’s Edwardian look, especially for wealthy women who followed strict social rules, in an age known for “elegance in excess”. The trends at the time lasted up until the Great War (WW1) which again saw women long skirts and corsets. Footwear was the classic laceup ankle boot – look at the style still available today. The Edwardian look was opulent and formal, with dressing to fit the occasion, and some wealthy women could choose expensive fabrics and trims, for their made to measure outfits accompanied by hats, gloves and often a frilly parasol, or umbrella.
Department stores at the time offered “ready to wear” clothes so women could have a variety of outfits to choose from. However, those less fortunate would copy patterns and make their own versions at home. Well dressed women were covered from the neck down, and had an S shape silhouette, formed from the corsets they wore, making their chest protrude and their bottom poke out. The bell shape slowly disappeared by the end of the decade, as tailored suits became more popular, as did high lace collars with loose embellished blouses. Two piece outfits were popular for casual day wear, but in the evening women would don delicate lacy party or tea dresses with deeper necklines. Some lovely Edwardian outfits can be purchased through Etsy today. Designers started using crinoline to produce suits and dresses for women who worked, to increase numbers in war production. Day suits in particular saw hemlines shortened to ankle length, as there was a shortage, but a push to reduce clothing textiles, in aid of the war effort. And so this trend continued, which slowly saw all hemlines rising, making way for a new style of fashion style.
ART DECO ERA
Following the Great War, skirt lengths continued to rise till they were just below the knee. During this time, but resisting mainstream styles, a French designer called Paul Poiret created a dropped waist corset free dress which draped loosely with straight lines down the body. Influenced by Art Deco, this classic style became very popular as women took to more social activities such as tennis, horse back riding and cycling, by day and swing dancing by night. This style became the norm for those women wanting to be more active at a social level in society. This vintage era gave birth to the Flapper Dress which was usually a light weight fabric dress in a dropped waistline with either a asymmetrical or hankerchief style skirt adorned with sequins, diamantes or fringes for evening wear. Classic flapper dresses can be found at online stores – look at some of those classic styles right here. Alternatively flapper re creations can also be sourced here online.
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The cocoon coat was considered a very classic chic fashion item influenced by Hollywood glamour and worn by the wealthy for formal occasions. For day wear they wore polyester in geometric shapes with either dropped or no waistlines, and square or V-Neck collar. Pleats were common in some dresses as well as layered skirts, however the Great Depression had a significant influence on fashion, so many wanted to save money and did this by re-crafting their existing wardrobe with reused clothes already bought, instead of buying designer fashions. Some (not many) cocoon coats can be bought online through Etsy, take a look at these.
During this time, the sailor suit also made an appearance, as a alternative look for day wear. Some dresses even had shawl – like collars, but worn with loose wool coats, would complete the look. The corset continued to be worn as an undergarment, but a slip was worn over it in silk or light satin fabric, and bloomers made shorter, so as not to be seen where silk stockings were fastened. Skirt lengths during that time would hover up and down, and by the 1940’s they settled to below the knee. Try these silk stockings to complete your gatsby inspired look today – available now through Etsy.
1940’s / 1950’s ERA
The 1940’s was characterized by wartime fashion with practical and utility-focused designs, as well as the introduction of the New Look silhouette towards the end of the decade. Women’s fashion was radically affected at this time due to the war effort, rationing and scarcity of materials available. There was a major shift in fashion styling, which saw bans and restrictions on raw materials, leading to the development of man – made fibers, that are widely used today. The fashion and clothing industry faced many challengers because of this, but designers were instructed by Governments to use their creativity with products already supplied, hence making new trends of World War 2 fashionable. Silhouette lines and simplicity was name of the game with plain fabrics that saw similarity in the fashion of all classes. Such similarities could be seen among work clothing, and what was worn for social functions. Dresses mainly resembled military clothing, with shoulder pads being introduced at that time. look at these stylish 40’s inspired dresses you can buy now online. Other alternatives are also available here. Due to the nature of their work, circumstances in society and practicality, women’s slacks were introduced as another fashion item which could be worn with blouses and coats that were made from cotton, linen or wool. Colours were plain or neutral, but often with patriotic colours, produced to support the war effort. The bikini made it’s debut and was introduced during this time as an alternative to the ladies swimsuit. A small selection of two piece 1940’s inspired bikinis can be purchased here, but also through this online store.
The vintage 1950’s era and the baby boomers decade brought hope and freedom to the world. But this era was rather characterized by full skirts, cinched waists and the iconic “pin up“ style. Designers like Christian Dior who started making their mark on fashion in the late 1940’s with their “New Look” continued dominating women’s fashion, like the full skirted silhouette with the nipped in waistline and the structured shawl collar dress, which progressively became straighter and slimmer towards the end of the 1950’s. The silhouette continued to evolve in evening dresses, day dresses and separates, but designers like Givenchy kept it true to style, by keeping with the nipped in waist and full skirt. Day and evening dresses can be bought and come in a variety of styles here at Amazon. Look no further than these styles today. Other styles are available at Zapaka Vintage.
The rise of casual wear such as Jeans and T.shirt was a phenomenal shift in the history of vintage fashion worldwide. This led to some designers looking for new inspirations and a fresh approach among the youth in fashion. As the decade progressed, outfits became less structured, but straighter in cut.
During which other designers created beautiful classic couture pieces, an American designer Claire McCardell who started out in the 1940’s with her casual approach to fashion including wrap around dresses, pedal pushers with matching tops, sundresses and swimsuits that younger ladies preferred, continued to be prominent as women turned to less formal designs and so the craze of sportswear began. Another trend that emerged was the “poodle skirt”, created by a Californian designer which was circular and cut from a bold colour, with a felt embellishment placed on the front, not necessary a poodle, but teamed with a tight fitted twin set following the “New Look” line of fashion. If you are seeking a poodle skirt in particular, take a look at what I found here online.
Also, throughout this stage the “Cocktail Dress” was born – a cross between a day dress and evening dress adorned with embellishments, which set off the mood for the evening. Strapless dresses derived from this idea and became quite popular. You can choose some cocktail inspired dresses at this online store. Bomber jackets and long cardigans were worn by men and women alike during this time, often as a part of a school uniform or college wear. Bomber jackets are still fashionable and can be purchased through Amazon.
SWINGING 60’S & 70’S
The 1960’s was known for the mod fashion, bold patterns and mini skirts, with the influence of youth culture on fashion. However, the early 1960’s was still highly influenced by the styles of the late 1950’s. The silhouette continued to stay simple as dresses moved to either A-Line or shift style, with or without sleeves. Suits were still very popular and often were belted to highlight the waist, this was evident with office attire or high end classic boutique wear. Scroll through this online link where you will find some classic shift style dresses available now. Alternative styles are available here at Retro Stage. Colours started out again as pastels, but slowly moved towards vibrant prints with brighter and bolder tones, depicting a youthful generation where the skirt lengths lifted above the knee, and depending on their age, were worn even higher from the mid 60’s onwards.
Trends were moving towards the future and with the release of space technology, there was an obsession with the Space Age. A french designer called Andre Courreges used his inspiration to model the new age clothing designs in a Mod fashion which was adopted throughout Europe, UK and the US depicting women’s liberation, simple clean lines and often with either white or silver tonings. The mini skirt was also invented at this time by Mary Quant (named after the Mini car), but Andre Courreges had also invented this, however it’s not apparent who designed it first? This skirt length trend continued right up until the 1980’s in many forms. Fashion styles and colours continued to be comfortable but practical in day wear, with paisley and floral tones, while suiting and coats introduced tweed and houndstooth prints for that corporate and more classic look favoured by Chanel, which many famous and society people followed. The mini skirt was often teamed with tops or turtleneck jumpers and matching cardigans. Houndstooth mini skirts are selling here online, so learn more about these today. Knee length coats were matched with short dresses for social outings such as the races or cocktail parties adorned with Pill Box hats. Another trend that revolutionized fashion was the invention of the panty hose which saw women be freed from wearing a girdle or garter belt.
Towards the late 60’s, fashions were heavily influenced by the hippy movement and flower power. Women and men alike wore brightly coloured shirts, jeans and platform shoes became a statement which continued well into the 1970’s. This era was diverse with styles that ranged from bohemian and hippie fashion to disco inspired glamour, but characterized by bell-bottom, platforms and bold prints. The youth in general adopted this trend, with peace and unisex being the forefront of trending styles supporting freedom movements and music festivals like Woodstock. Buy similar bell bottoms today, to get that hippie feel to your outfit.
By the way, Kaftans emerged as the “Hostess Dress” which was designed by Yves Saint Laurent and adopted by society women as an alternative “resort style dress” with a classic but trendy feel to the late 60’s age. By the mid 1970’s a new era had emerged – the Disco Era which firstly brought about a change in textiles and what was being used to create disco or party wear. Host your next summer party in these Kaftan original styles – buy one today for that “resort style” look.
Many synthetic fibers were created to incorporate fabric styles such as jersey knits, cordouroy, velvet, lycra and other stretch polyesters. Shirts were made from polyester as well as trousers, but denim jeans were very popular if not more so with the flared look, which was very fashionable at the time. Dresses were halterneck as well as tops or tied with spaghetti straps over the shoulders and skirts were wide or hankerchief style. Tops and jackets were short and often would stop at the midriff showing of a flat belly button. All trousers or jeans were hipster style and stayed that way until the 1980’s. Denim jumpsuits were hugely popular, and different styles can be bought through Selfridges today. The Windcheater and T.shirt were worn widely as a casual fashion look, and the Miller shirt emerged for a short time as well.
Evening wear saw classic styles with flowing chiffon evening dresses trimmed with diamantes, or shimmering jersey dresses which were fitted on the bodice, with a wrap around style that tied together at the waist. Other classic styles were jumpsuits that zipped up in the back with flared bottoms, and long frilled dresses in softer cotton tones which gathered and tied at the waist, but often were off the shoulder in a “peasant style”. These dresses were considered more modest for a formal occasion or debutante ball, rather than the mini cocktail disco dress. Finding these dresses today may not be easy, however I have sourced some styles through Etsy for you. The sporting brand Adidas made a bigger impact on young people as sport and fitness was more prevalent in the 1970’s, which became widespread among teenagers who adopted this style wearing either a bomber jacket, sneakers or a sports accessory.
THE COMPUTER AGE
The 1980’s was known as the computer age as technology moved from humble beginnings with monitors and keyboards replacing typewriters in offices everywhere. But fashion in the 1980’s was marked as bold and colourful, but also powerful, as suiting took a new twist with the re emergence of shoulder pads in executive fashion styling. Dresses continue to make a statement in bold colours, and with the introduction of satin jersey, shantung and taffeta creating a new look for evening wear complete with shoulder padding. Women in the workforce began to pushed boundaries in authority, influenced by leaders such as Margaret Thatcher who was a revolutionary figure in society. The early 80’s emerged with flouro colours as trends developed, with geometric and asymmetrical lines being prevalent in many styles. Narrow skirts played a big part as outfits were teamed with loose bat-wing tops. You can create an authentic vintage style with some ideas here and there, but take a look at the options available now online.
This period also saw the emergence of punk and new wave fashion which was styled on offensive and vulgar labeling, expressing sociopolitical messages, worn on clothing in shades of black and white, but mostly in casual attire that was distressed or studded – much like the hairstyles and piercings of the wearer, but not considered to be classic by any means.
1980 outfits were accessorized by matching handbags and footwear in either court shoes or ankle boots, which completed the trendy 80’s look. Pantyhose was a must, however fishnets became very popular – especially black, and as the decade rolled on accessories became very chunky, including large earrings, pearl beads and diamante jewellery. Jackets were more popular than coats, and often were worn over dresses made of either suede or leather. Gloves made a comeback in the form of fingerless as an additional accessory, and Leg-O-Mutton sleeved tops and dresses stood out, as well as big boufy hairstyles with striking makeup. Throughout this era the disco age continued, so the need for “party wear” was big, and many new and up coming designers all over the world started to make their mark on fashion. Suiting with long skirts or pants continued from the late 80’s till the 90’s – where chic was in, as well as sportswear which helped shape the 1990’s fashion trends. Lycra pants and other 80’s attire can be bought at Amazon today, so lets get that boogying aesthetic happening.
Classic vintage fashion has enduring popularity due to it’s timeless appeal, unique dessigns, and the way it reflects the cultural and societal influences of it’s time. People in general appreciate the craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the sense of nostalgia associated with vintage clothing. Fashion enthusiasts, collectors and those who seek a unique and personal style will often turn to classic vintage fashion for inspiration.
I hope you enjoyed my take on classic vintage fashion throughout the ages. I personally love the 1930’s-1950’s era which saw women looking very glamorous, despite the challenges they were facing. To me that spells real classic vintage.
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Many thanks
Helen